柏林 DIY喷黑色哑光车膜 求伙伴
本帖最后由 likaiyan 于 2014-8-20 20:48 编辑刚买了辆二手车，车的性能不错，颜色不太喜欢，就想喷个 plasti DIP的黑色亚光的车膜。（不损伤原来的漆，不想要这个颜色直接拔掉就行了） 车行咨询价格1400左右。太贵，网络有DIY的教程，所以准备买喷枪，和车膜自己喷，整车喷价格大概在300左右。有兴趣的在柏林的同学大家一起折腾
准备今天买装备和车膜，下周选个时间喷
发些资料 擦~我没有权限发链接，大家google plati DIP就行了~
有兴趣的同学联系我，可以一起喷
交作业~
很多朋友站内问，我就来说说经验吧，本来去车行喷，结果价格是1300到1800不等，觉得太贵，就决定在youtube上看视频自己学习喷。
我有个很好的小伙伴很懂车 他得id是 wuyu730（就是二手车专家，我的车从最初选，到买都是他帮忙的，人很不错，超级赞，大家买车可以找他）
我自己买了个喷枪（60），买了10升的漆（280），还有手套，口罩，胶带，大概20欧，就开始喷，这个确实是个技术活，但是也不难，网络上的教程足够用，我就罗列个我找到的总结。
由于我的车底色是红色，黑色很难覆盖，喷过后有些细节还能看出来些红色，我就又卖了四瓶 400ml（50欧）的带喷嘴的漆，补喷。所以大概花费在400欧。场地是在wuyu730家的车库，很感谢wuyu730，木有他我也木有这个胆子自己喷。买漆一定要注意自己车的底色。喷漆的色彩和原色差异越大，需要的漆的量越大。我前后加起来用了12升，其实还有点不够。
Plasti-Dip is awesome for DIY projects – it leaves a textured finish that looks very OEM, yet it is removable if you ever want to return your car back to stock, perfect for thing such as blacking out your emblems, grille, interior trim or car parts. An added benefit is that it is super durable, even more so then paint in many applications, such it is perfect for parts such as your front grille. As someone that has done quite a few projects with Plasti-Dip spray paint, I thought I’d offer a few tips & suggestions on how to get the best results – this is from a combination of my own personal experience, as well as from others that I have read online. Many of these pointers also apply to using standard spray paint, but with Plasti-Dip they are especially important….
Plasti-Dip Application Tips (for Spray Cans):
Consider practicing on something unimportant first, just to get the hang of it. Something like a light switch cover, a piece of scrap wood, or something lying around in your garage.
Clean whatever part you are coating very thoroughly – Start with soap & water, but then use acetone, paint thinner, or nail polish remover to make sure you get all of the finger grease & etc. off of it…
If you’re not planning on removing the plasti-dip ever, consider sanding the part before coating it. While not necessary, sanding the part will produce better results…
Your first few coats should be very light. You need to establish a base. Start with a very, very light spray over the part, so thin you can still see the original color under it. Wait about 15 minutes then do another light coat, but this time spray thick enough you can’t see the base color anymore.
In your next few coats start laying it down thicker and thicker. Once you have a solid base built up, you can & should lay it on pretty thick – obviously you don’t want it to run, but you want it on thick enough it looks glossy.
Shake the can a lot,and take breaks while spraying so you don’t get lazy and hold it one spot too long and create drips.
Don’t try to spray too large of an area at one time – the nozzle will start to clog, resulting in drips and uneven spraying. If you’re going to do a large area, have multiple cans you can switch between so no one can is being used longer than 1-2 minutes.
Allow 30-40 minutes between coats after your first two coats
Be sure to spray it from multiple angles to get full coverage – I suggest propping the part up, and then making sure you can walk around it so you can hit it from every angle. If you don’t get full & even coverage, some areas of it make look darker or glossier than other areas.
The closer you are, the smoother the texture. The further away you hold the can, the more textured it looks. Spray accordingly, but be forewarned that if you spray too far away it will be really annoying to clean…
Let it dry for several days before trying to wash or clean it – it takes a little longer to fully cure and will be a little sticky or tacky to the touch in the meantime. If possible, I’d wait at least 24-48 hours before installing the part on your car to ensure it doesn’t chip prematurely.
Keep the can upright when spraying, and be sure to clean out the nozzle by spraying it upside down when done. It is easy for it to clog, which will produce poor results.
Temperature – like normal spray paint, avoid extreme temperatures such as it being really cold, really humid, or really hot. This will affect drying time and may also prevent it from curing properly.
Over-spray – now this is the really awesome thing about Plasti-dip – you don’t really have to worry about over-spray that much…if you happen to overspray you should be able to peel it off.
You can refresh your plasti-dipped items if they start to wear, fade or chip – after about a year my grille needed a few touch ups, so I just cleaned it and re-sprayed it from scratch, starting with a few light coats and then building it up, just like I originally did, and the results were stellar, making it look brand-new again.
Always buy a few extra cans – since you spray it on pretty thick, you go through it pretty quickly.DipYourCar.com offers kits so you have everything you need to complete your project.
Plasti-Dip Removal Tips:
Equally as important as applying it, is how to remove it. Personally I haven’t been too successful in this area, but here are the most common ways to remove it:
Pressure washer – blast it off
Mineral Spirits or Acetone - disintegrate it
Sandpaper – sand it off
Uses for Plasti-Dip on Cars:
You can use Plasti-Dip virutally anywhere except areas that get very hot such as the engine bay or around the brakes & wheels.
Black-out Grilles – a cheap project that can really transform the look of your car…
Black-out Emblems – de-chrome those ugly badges by spraying them with Plasti-Dip for a more stealth look. You can even do this with the emblem still attached to the car! Check out this thread on G35NYC.com for pointers on this
Black-out window or chrome trim – much like the emblems, your overspray will peel right off the windows of your car and/or car paint, so you can use this to pretty easily cover your window trim.
Interior Trim – I’ve seen several people Plasti-Dip interior trim pieces to match their OEM trim – the black textured look matches perfectly with a lot of common interior materials, making it seem as if it came that way from the factory
Wheels – I’ve seen it done, but I wouldn’t recommend it as it will deteriorate over time. If you’re considering having your wheels powdercoated black, you could try Plasti-Dipping them to see how they look, and if you don’t like it you could always peel or pressure wash off the Plasti-Dip.
Rear Valence – this one is iffy – the heat from your exhaust may eventually melt off the Plasti-Dip, so it really depends on how much power your car puts out and if you still have catalytic converters or not, but for many applications you’ll be fine.
Where to Get it:
While many places sell Plasti-Dip, I highly recommend DipYourCar.com – they’ve got the best prices, and they focus specifically on the car enthusiasts and automotive related applications of Plasti-Dip. They can answer your questions and sell you a kit that has everything you’ll need to Plasti-Dip your car, no matter what the size of the project!
Plasti-Dip Pictures
Like I said, the really cool part about Plasti-Dip is the finish & texture. Take a look at these pics I took comparing Plasti-Dip to matte black Krylon Fusion spray paint. You can see that the Plasti-Dip is less glossy, more textured, and has a really OEM look and feel to it. Add to that, it’s much more durable! My grille in standard spray paint started chipping within a week, but when coated in Plasti-Dip it lasted months!
For more pictures of completed Plasti-Dip projects, check out the DipYourCar.com Photo Gallery. 这个真不错. 这个要去哪里喷？ pattonoriental 发表于 2014-8-10 11:00
这个要去哪里喷？
自己买工具自己喷 likaiyan 发表于 2014-8-10 21:26
自己买工具自己喷
见过youtube上有人演示一种喷膜。喷上去过一会就变成胶皮膜一样的质地，不喜欢可以直接用手揭下来。lz你是准备搞这种么？如果将来有steinschlag之类的，把膜打破了，会不会破口越来越大，变得很闹心？ moudy 发表于 2014-8-10 21:31
见过youtube上有人演示一种喷膜。喷上去过一会就变成胶皮膜一样的质地，不喜欢可以直接用手揭下来。lz你 ...
是那样的叫plasti 的膜~质量好的漆可以用4年左右。 这个需要顶一顶哇 黑色哑光的膜新的时候不错，久了感觉又脏又破 plasti dip 非常有可能过了一段时间就揭不下来了…………